Cleaning and maintaining windows: the basic rules

Dust, salt and dirt build up on coated surfaces, in the tracks and in the hardware.

  • water, a soft cloth or sponge and a mild cleaner,
  • tracks kept clear of sand and small objects,
  • no wire wool and no aggressive chemicals,
  • more frequent care in a coastal setting,
  • moving parts checked and maintained according to their own instructions.

The warranty terms distinguish BS METAL fabrication and installation from the individual factory warranties for coating, glazing, hardware and automation.

Lukewarm water, a mild neutral detergent and a soft cloth or sponge. No solvents, acetone or alcohol on painted surfaces, no acidic or alkaline cleaners, no wire wool or abrasive powders — and never a pressure washer on joints and gaskets. Three things are forgotten almost every time: the drainage holes at the bottom of the frame, which clog with dust and leaves and need one check a year; the gaskets, which stay elastic longer when they are clean; and the hardware, with a little oil on the moving points and none on the adjustment points.

What to use and what not to

  • Yes: lukewarm water, a mild neutral detergent, a soft cloth or sponge.
  • No: solvents, acetone, alcohol on coated surfaces, acidic or alkaline cleaners, scouring pads and abrasive powders.
  • Never: a pressure washer on joints and gaskets.

The three points that get forgotten

  • The drainage holes at the bottom of the frame. They block with dust and leaves; once a year a check is enough.
  • The gaskets. Kept clean and, where specified, treated with a little silicone care product, they stay flexible longer.
  • The hardware. A little oil on the moving points, not on the adjustment points.

Paint, cement and plaster after a renovation

While the residue is fresh, warm water and a mild cleaner take it off. Once dry, soften it with water first and lift it with a plastic spatula — never a blade, a razor or wire wool. Solvents such as acetone or white spirit do not belong on coated or anodised aluminium: the damage to the surface cannot be undone. Whatever is tried, is tried first where it does not show.

Polishing: what actually applies

Coated and anodised aluminium is not polished the way bare metal is. Abrasive polishes take a thin layer off the surface: it looks brighter at first, then dulls unevenly and loses its protection. The sheen comes from a clean, dry surface, not from rubbing.

Anodised and coated surfaces are cleaned equally gently, but anodising cannot be “recoated” if it is scratched. Care with an abrasive sponge counts double there.

Frequently asked questions

How do you get paint or cement off aluminium?

While the residue is fresh, warm water and a mild cleaner. Once dry, soften it with water and lift it with a plastic spatula — never a blade or wire wool. Acetone, white spirit and bleach do not belong on coated or anodised aluminium: the damage to the surface cannot be undone.

Can aluminium be polished?

Not the way bare metal can. Abrasive polishes take a thin layer off the coating or the anodising; the surface then dulls unevenly and loses its protection. The sheen comes from a clean, dry surface.

What needs attention in the tracks?

Dust, salt and dirt build up there, as they do on coated surfaces and in the hardware. The tracks should be kept clear of sand and small objects.

Are the coating and the hardware covered by the fabrication warranty?

The warranty terms distinguish BS METAL fabrication and installation from the individual factory warranties for coating, glazing, hardware and automation.

Have a specific project? Get in touch.